Evolv Talon Rock Climbing Shoe Review

After blowing out a toe in my Evolv Bandits I had to shop around for a new pair of shoes.  I wanted a shoe for sport climbing and after my awesome experience with the Bandits I decided to go with another Evolv.  I had shopped around on REI and Moosejaw and had read a few reviews on some different shoes.  Finally, after about the 3rd day of researching I determined I wanted the Evolv Talons for their aggressive fit.  An aggressive shoe was new to me and I had gotten better, so I felt like I was ready for a better performing shoe.

At that time, I had never bouldered.  Friends and I would always hit the high walls and always considered ourselves just sport climbers.  After moving to Utah though, I knew no one to climb with, so I became a boulderer.  The Bandits were ok for bouldering, but the Talons felt like they were made for it.


Here is my take on the Talons.

PROS

- Powerful toe
You will feel confident on any tiny nubbin.  I think this is the most important trait of these shoes.  With more difficult problems, tiny handholds, and slick footholds, these shoes display why you need a powerful toe.

-  Powerful heel
The super-powered superman heel will help with those sit starts and mantles to be way easier.

- Stickiest rubber in the market
Evolv's eco-rubber is the stickiest in the market.  5ten may have come out with a new rubber recently, but Evolv still is the stickiest when compared to the Stealth and Vibram rubber making those impossible routes a bit easier.

-  They look badass
I love the color scheme and design of them.

-  Can get either the lace-up or velcro
Evolv made the Talons (lace-up) and the Predator (velcro) exactly the same for those people who like velcro better.

CONS

- Uncomfortable
After putting in about 3 days a week for 4 months, they finally molded to my foot.  They got "better" but really did not fit as well as other models.  I do have a wider foot than average but I felt the Bandits molded more than the Talons did.  For sizing: I wear a 10 and have a 9.5 street shoe.

- One dimensional
I took a trip to Red River Gorge and busted out the Talons.  I did not feel as secure on the rock as I do with a flatter bottom.  Yes, I know they are designed for overhangs, but cmon, they should be able to take on slab if they are a bouldering shoe.  I think for bouldering though, you can not get any better.  I feel confident with these shoes.  Again though, expect to have another pair with these.

-  Smell Bad
I am curious if it is just the brand that is making my shoes smell horrible or what.  Like my Bandits, these smell pretty horrible, but damn do they perform! ;)

Recommendation
For any climber looking to improve their game in bouldering, you will need a higher performing shoe.  The Talons give you the performance that you want by giving you that warm and fuzzy feeling of security on problems rather than the "oh shit" feeling.

Retail for $150