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I have been up the Skillet before but that was for more of a Summer-ski than a Spring-ski by paddling a canoe over Jackson Lake. This time was a little different as Jackson Lake is still frozen with a thick layer of ice.

After doing a one-day push excursion to ski Bivuoac Peak, same partner, we decided it would be beneficial to camp across Jackson Lake at the toe of Mt Moran's skillet. A 2.5 hour later skin across the lake as the sun was dying down on Friday we made it to our proposed spot, set up our tent, made up some freeze dried meals and went to bed knowing we were only going to get a few hours of sleep.



The next morning we woke up at 3:30am but finally got out of bed around 4:00am. Getting gear together in complete darkness we made our way up to the Skillet skinning through the forested area just below it by 5:00am. About 30 minutes or so later we got full view of the Skillet and what appeared to be headlamps high up on the peak. Like really high. I couldn't believe it and was trying to recall how it felt waking up at 1:00am to ski this thing. All in we counted 6 headlamps, which we later would learn there were about 10 headlamps. How were we so much later than everyone else when our plan was to summit and ski by 10:00-11:00am due to the day time high's of 53 degrees. Seeing this, we moved with a snappier pace, my mindset went to trying to catch up to at least the last group but also knew that our timing was just fine.

We skinned about a thousand feet up before switching to crampons for the never-ending stair master that is the Skillet. The snow surface was a mix of rock hard, then the sun came out and softened the snow quickly. There was a runnel in the main shot where the snow from a week ago sloughed off from rapid heating. Also, there was a bootpack the whole way up due to the early risers, that we appreciated. Even with that, we sunk in once we got higher up and later in the day. All in it took us about 5:45 from camp to summit covering the 5000' of vertical. It was a slog and always is but worth the ski down.

Being the last group of the day we had the Skillet to ourselves. Putting boards on snow the snow was fantastic outside of the steep entrance. The entire slope had softened up just enough but not too much where it was sketchy. In hindsight, I think our timing was pretty spot on and wouldn't want to be much earlier and definitely not later.



Arriving back at camp around 12:30pm, we grabbed some beers, dried gear out and made the decision to bail on the idea of Bivouac Peak the next day. We opted to walk back across Jackson Lake and I am glad that is what we decided because my muscles could not handle another four thousand foot day.

Looking towards the future, I read the BTAC afternoon report and they stated that there was "a brief freeze" the night before we skied Moran. Hopefully that doesn't mean the end of our Spring season here in the Tetons. I doubt it but that's just how my mind works, fearing the ski season is near the end.




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A Southeast shot off of Cloudveil Dome, across canyon from the very infamous 25 Short, I have taken photos of this line far too many to count. It is a line that I and everybody knows goes through but required a rappel. From afar I always thought a 30m rope would do but after doing research was way off.


We woke up and left the house around 7:30am after we established that we would meet at 7:00am the night before. My mistake on this as I set my alarm for 7:00am instead of 6:00am the night prior (not sure what I was thinking there), as I like to have an hour before leaving. After this great start to the day already because of a stupid mistake I found myself rushed out the door throwing my stuff into the truck. We arrived to the parking lot at 8:30am to a not-so-packed parking lot which is not normal for this year, but very happy to see crowds are dissipating around here. (Call me a jaded local if you want, I don't care.)

After a couple of hours we made it to the first full look of the Middle Teton around 11:00am. Looking at the Middle then looking back from where we came from painted two very different stories - cloudy, dark, uninviting versus up canyon it was bluebird, slightly breezy and sun with patchy clouds. Temperatures felt to be around teens but quickly felt like mid-20s when the sun poked through.



On our way up to the north side access of Cloudveil Dome we could hear crashing of some kind. Twice we saw sizeable sluffs come off the Grand and the Middle. The sluff off the Grand came right through the Ford-Stettner. The second came thirty minutes later on the south aspect of the Middle through the Chouinard Couloir.


We made our way up the north side of Cloudveil Dome where we would eventually hit the ridge line and drop into the SE of Cloudveil. The snow on the way up was variable, but the majority of it was 5" of new snow and wind swept. The snow was surprisingly well bonded and as the north aspects stay colder, the snow was nice and powdery. We made it to a point skinning but decided to switch to booting. We threw our crampons on and started booting up the last pitch. The snow was waist deep in some sections and others were knee deep. We floated up the last pitch in much quicker time than it took us to get to the last pitch.




We got to the top of ridge, let out a "yeehaw", and checked the watch; 2:00pm. As we looked down the line we were scheduled to ski on a South aspect, we then would look back at what we climbed up and compared the two. What we climbed up was powdery goodness and what we were to ski was sun-pow at best. Safety wise we decided that both were about the same in safety. The temperatures up high surprisingly, and I confirmed this later, stayed in the teens all day. We both were okay passing on good snow for the objective, which we would regret a little later.


Dropping into the Nugget my first 2 turns were total shit. It was like riding a cheese grater and I could barely get an edge in. This is where my instant regret set in, 'we could be skiing pow right now' but I was not about to climb back out. Riding further down I stopped at a safe spot, waited for my buddy then we made our way hard left to the remaining 3/4 of the couloir. We lucked out as this next section was creamy goodness! And to be honest felt safer than riding the wind affected north aspect we climbed up. The slope was variable in some parts as you had to ski over some old avy debris, but overall it was great Spring riding.



We made it all of the way down and were having trouble finding the rap station for how/why the couloir got it's name, as the rock you rappel over looks like a nugget. My buddy saw it on the right side, higher up than we expected it to be. The rappel station was on a pretty steep slope and would be tight for more than just the two of us.


Fortunately, we did our research and did not just bring my 30m rope but brought a 45m as well. It would have been nice to have a true 70m single rope but our two half ropes worked just fine and we made it down to the bottom of the nugget rap fairly easily. I think a 70m single rope would have placed us on flat ground though instead of a slope. Also, my buddy rappelled it fully strapped into his board. I did it one foot in and one out. We both agree it was probably easier to have one foot out as it is kind of an awkward rappel and ice is covering a majority of the bottom section.


Collecting our ropes, looking back up we were both pretty high on what we had done. We party skied the remaining apron and down to the bottom of canyon where we switched over to skins and walked out. 10 hours all in we made it back to the parking lot and headed home. It was a longer day than I expected but in retrospect it is 5000' of vert.

Regardless, we were both stoked on the day!
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The little brother, or I guess for it's namesake, the "son" of the "father" that is the Apocalypse Couloir, the Son of the Apocalypse is a couloir just before the Apocalypse and anyone who has done the latter has definitely seen the entrances to the former.

The Tetons have seen a weird season - Covid crowds have flooded the Pass, the Park, the Village and the Ghee (that last one is a first). On top of Covid we are the only ones with a decent snowpack whereas Utah, Colorado, Montana, California have seen higher than normal temperatures and less precipitation. Our avy conditions have been sketchy at best to dangerous pretty much all Winter. So when the temperatures go from 25 degrees and snow on February 28th and immediately, like hitting a light switch, the sun comes out and Spring temperatures (about 45 degrees) come out March 1st causing the snowpack to heal, we finally started looking at bigger lines. We landed on the Son of the Apocalypse, a north facing shot just off of Prospectors with the hopes to find some soft powdery snow, the kind everyone and their grandma likes.


We got out early to beat the heat and, for some reason it didn't hit me until we got out there but, to beat the crowds too. I think it is the norm now, if you have a good idea in the Tetons someone else has the same great idea. Anyway, we rolled up at about 8:00am to a not-so-filled parking lot. I saw some people I knew and they were heading the same direction as we were. We also crossed one other group on the way up but I believe they went higher to the Apocalypse.

Moving on, worth noting it was a high of 45 degrees that day and as we were making our way up on an East aspect, by 10:00am the snow was already mashed potatoes. It did not take long for everything to dethaw from the night before. That definitely got me a little nervous, not for safety but because it felt like our Spring season would be very short if these temps kept up this way.

Moving on again, we made it to the top of the second entrance to the Son of after dealing with some bad glopping. All in it took us longer than it should have, about 4 hours but neither of us were in a rush. It was kind of nice to have the sun on the skin for the first time in three months.


Dropping into the Son of it was meh. Better than I expected snow quality wise and knowing that there were a group of three ahead of us (the buddies I mentioned in the beginning), I will not be complaining about it. There was also a group behind us so, yeah, sorry if it sucked behind us.Overall, it was a fun line that usually requires a mandatory air at the end. That was filled in this time. It is a great line to get into and definitely worth the short walk across Phelps Lake. I will probably be revisiting in Winter conditions next time.






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Something I have thought about doing many times and have talked about doing it just as many but the timing to do it never lined up. My motivation to traverse mellow terrain for roughly 11 miles of 6,000 vertical was always bested by the motivation to ski a big line in the Park or ski powder at the resort. With the resorts closed, the Park closed and everyone on house arrest (and keeping it local in the outdoors) this was a perfect opportunity to do this all-North-facing-skiing route. Read on to find out what it is and how it went.

Edelweiss to Oliver Peak
Gaia Stats:
11.6 miles
11:01 total time
5,994' ascent
8,000' descent (Not exact, Gaia didn't track it)

If I recall correctly I gotten the motivation for this after reading about Forest McCarthy and Derek Collins going from Teton Pass to Pine Creek Pass on cross country skis for 23 miles. What's amazing of about what they did was that it was double the mileage and in 2 hours less than us. Their ascent and descents were about 2k less each but still, to think of adding 12 miles to our day would of been an extra 11 hours for us. After reading more of Forest's posts from the past, traverses seem to be his (and Derek's) forte completing a traverse of the South Pole, the Gros Ventres, Yellowstone, etc. So maybe traversing from Pass to Pass wouldn't be my thing but there was something there that I could tweak and make my own. After skiing the Pass for multiple years, different sections of it, it is obvious that it can all be easily linked up. It was more of a concern of endurance than anything.

We met at the top of the Pass around 6:00am with intentions of being out all day. It was a cold morning, about 16 degrees up top with the typical breeze blowing that is synonymous with the Glory lot. We were surprised to see two others up there heading our way and a third who went up Glory, I would assume for a pre-work lap. We wondered if there would be others trying? What a coincidence.

Heading out towards Powder Reserve we stopped early and dropped into the basin below Edelweiss. The area had seen some tracks but for the only places to ski for the last several weeks now, it was not too bad. I think it helped that we had received roughly 3" of snow everyday for about a week then got hit with a 10" storm cleaning up all of the, what I would suspect would be, farmed tracks.

Climbing up Edelweiss we were greeted to a great sunrise and what was going to look like a bluebird sky. The night before, the weather looked like it was going to be partly sunny for most of the day and a high of 39 degrees, hence why we wanted to start early. Also, we were fully aware that we are not the strongest out there and was probably going to take us to the tune of 12 hours to get all of the way across. The skiing off of the backside of Edelweiss was a nice opener, getting the legs ready for a lot of up-transition-down-transition time. My hands were frozen after one lap and I think all of the sitting at home time due to Covid has made me a little soft. All in, the first lap took us roughly an hour. I was happy with that as we were not hard-charging up. It is and will be a marathon after all.

Next was climbing up Columbia Bowl. While climbing up I had noticed that not much had been skied even though the main parking lot has been packed to the gills everyday. Our Pass Ambassador had stated earlier that he had seen twice as many cars in the past couple weeks, from 300 to 600 cars a day. I had two theories to this; beginners are getting into the backcountry and are skiing Glory only or there really aren't that many people getting out. And then there was a third, people are over skiing, but that can't be correct. I don't know. Getting to the top of the bowl produced some fantastic views, and also, dropping the north-side of Columbia was another treat from Ullr producing some shit-eating grins and woohoo's.




Next up, was going up the ridge between Columbia and Windy Ridge. This was another repeat of the line before. Great tree skiing and plenty of powder. Sorry, no photos and nothing of real value to add here, so I'm moving on quickly.

Climbing Windy Ridge was next.


Windy Ridge had not seen many tracks, again, which is shocking to say as Windy Ridge is pretty low hanging fruit on the Pass. We had crossed paths with someone, more senior than us, in the Windy Ridge basin who was continuing onto somewhere else that had not been tracked. I think the old timers out here have a higher standard of what is considered untracked to compared us young-ins. I would of been stoked to see the area with so few tracks, yet for him, was not good enough. I can support that logic.

At this point in the day the snow had seen significant sun, rising temps causing a drastic change in the consistency of the snow. We also saw a dramatic collapse of our pace as we had horrible glopping on our skins and warmed consolidated snow on top of our skis making it feel like our legs were being weighted down by those 10 lbs ankle weights. I did not want to complain though, the sun was out, I was outside and not reading another news report.

Skiing the backside of Windy had remained fantastic. The north facing shots, especially in the trees, stayed cold and it provided.




We had just finished skiing the backside of Windy Ridge, a first for me, into Burbank Creek. I have been told that this place is a black-hole-like place as the trees are tight, bushwacking is the only way out and the skiing is terrible, if you even get to slide downhill.

It was not a great time coming out of Burbank. We were in a sense, in a black hole, far away from our destination that felt close when looking at a map. We walked for a quite a bit, traversing around this tree filled bowl. Eventually we said screw it, hiked up instead of around to gain an extra 600' to earn a 1200' shot of skiing that landed us in a creek bed looking at the face we should've been climbing in the first place. We were not disappointed with our decision. The trees are perfectly spaced in there and I am sure we were some of the few tracks and probably the last tracks for the year.



Once we finally got out of the shadows of the Burbank Creek trees we realized how warm it had gotten. The glopping was horrible on the skins and the snow build up was insufferable on our top sheets. It was a "salt in the wound" as we had already covered 9 miles of 4500' (or so) of hiking and skiing. We continued our way up to Oliver, the final destination.

After what felt like 2 hours of climbing through completely unshaded areas we made it to the top of our 7th summit/perch. The sun still full-on and a bluebird sky above you could see the Grand from where we sat. We arrived there, I laid down fully sprawled out in the snow with the sun on my face. Felt so good to be there, accomplishing what we set out to do and just enjoying the scene/day. We knew the snow was going to be shit by the time we got here but again, it did not disappoint.

Both of us were a little wobbly coming out of there but I admit that I was surprised at how tired I wasn't. I expected to be "crawling" to the summit of Oliver. Not like I was smiling and chatting up my partner but I did feel like I could go to another hill. It would probably take forever though, who am I kidding?

If anyone is actually reading this in full and considering doing this, I would do it. We discussed it while on the skin track and don't believe it would have been as fun if it was cloudy and stormy but we lucked out with great weather. Also, the skiing was great from start to finish but what made it memorable was getting back to these viewpoints that not many people get to see. Like many adventures while out touring this has opened my eyes to more and new terrain, and I look forward to those adventures next Winter because as I sit here typing this, it is 45 degrees and raining. I'm sure we were not the first to do this, nor will we be the last and it probably will not be the last time I do it. I would it again.




Additional Photos:



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A day of riding in the backcountry with friends is a day of bliss and an unexpectedly amazing day in the backcountry with friends, is well, something.

A buddy, Billy, had just come off of an ACL surgery and was making a full recovery with a large amount of stoke to get out. We usually got out about once every couple weeks and when we did it's always a good time. He suggested we get out and ride the Sliver, something he had never done. I agreed with some reservations as I have done it enough that I'd rather look elsewhere, but whatever. It's not like it's a bad time!

It was four of us as a group - a buddy of mine from work, Billy's buddy, Billy and myself. We were moving good, had good conversations, which is nice on a three hour skin track and we were making good time. Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, Billy was starting to cramp up bad as he had spent several days in a row touring around the Tetons. He was stoked to be back and maybe overloaded himself. Because of this, Billy ended up bailing as he knew we still had 30 minutes of touring and another 1+ hour of bootpacking up the sliver. The three of us would continue on.

3.5 hours in, we made it to the top of Shadow and were looking at the Sliver from afar. We noticed weather was rolling in and the couloir was severally socked in, with wind picking up. You could see it was going to sit right in that canyon, too, as more clouds approached from the West. We all became apprehensive and much to my pleasure we opted not to ski the Sliver. I had mentioned that 4 hour Couloir is just below us and would be an easy entry.

I also mentioned I never skied it, so I might miss the entry.



We transitioned over for the ride down and picked our way looking for the entry into 4 hour. The snow leading in was fantastic, nice and light and deep.

We hit the top of 4 hour couloir, eventually, and got it right. Again, great riding in fantastic, hero snow. The beginning of the line is steep(er) with trees that eventually funnels into the couloir. Once in, the couloir is huge and plenty wide for large arcing turns. So with stable snow and not a huge slope angle, why not open it up!



Overall, it was a great line, great day with great dudes. Definitely one for the books and definitely worth repeating.

4 Hour is the furthest right

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