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Location: 3 hours east of Jackson, right outside of the town of Lander

Type of Climbing: Sport, Bouldering, Minimal Trad


Camping: Free camping at Lander's City Park, $6 for Wyo residents and $11 for non-Wyo residents at the Sawmill and Popo Aggie Campgrounds that are closer to the climbing

Guidebook: Lander Rock Climbs, 2015 Edition Paperback by Steve Bechtel

Sinks Canyon, Lander is a staple to the Wyoming climbing scene as many of climbers I know, venture three hours out there to this all-year, local climbing spot.

Amenities...
In Lander (5 minutes away) you can find everything you need: bar, hardware store, clothing stores, multiple gas stations, and small town or not, great food options.  

When it comes to climbing at Sinks...
Anytime I hear someone going to Sinks my fingers start to tingle, in a bad way. It is a great place but not to what I am personally accustom to climbing in Utah for half a decade. Sinks crag's walls are small pockets, small crimps, tight-to-wall face climbing that I have not fully adjusted to yet. I think it will take me several trips to do so. I still not have climbed at Killer Cave, which I have read has some of the best routes in the area.

I have not done any bouldering here as the guidebook for that came about while I was taking a break from climbing. I've heard it's good. Not that that is any solid information for you reading this.

The Guidebook... 
Easy to navigate, complete, color photos. Hard to find a flaw in it.

Weather...
Dry weather most of the time, if it rains there are few options to climbing as most of it is face climbing except the Killer Cave which is where most climbers go to regardless of weather. As I said above, Sinks is a year round climbing area, so going in August can be brutally hot. I feel that the best times to go are during the Fall and Spring, and south facing walls in the Winter.

Recommendation...

This place certainly seems like a local's crag as most people I have met while there are from Lander or surrounding areas (Teton Valley, Ten Sleep, etc). It is a great place to climb especially if you are coming from the Jackson area, but I prefer to go to Wild Iris that is an extra hour and a half past Sinks or (still haven't gone) to Ten Sleep which is much further.












 

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Location: Located in the town of Chimney Rock, North Carolina just outside of Lake Lure, NC

Type of Climbing: Bouldering, Trad, Sport

Type of Rock: Granite

Camping: Firefly Cove

Guidebook: Rumbling Bald Bouldering Guide

Amenities...
Don't even bother looking for anything nearby.  The town of Rumney is tiny, pretty stereotypical type of town that contains climbing.  The closest amenities are in Plymouth, NH about 20 minutes southeast of Rumney.  Along the way you will pass a Wal-Mart, Burger King, etc.

Climbing here...
Rumney is one of the hardest places to climb in the country.  Routes here have been labeled with Rumney ratings.  They mimic how the Gunks are.  Really stout 5.9s that feel like 10s/11s.  I was shocked to get on a route to later find out it was only a 5.7.  The climbs here are so tough, if not adapted to them, that the climbing is not that fun.  The type of holds are crimpy, never-a-jug, balancing act, that can confuse the hell out of you.

Bouldering wise, I feel like they matched up well with the rest of the country.  There were a plethera of high-ball routes so look to bring at least two crashpads here.  Overall, I thought the area was beautiful but the ratings are so far off from the rest of the country that it was difficult to enjoy them.



The Guidebook...
I would definitely pick up a guidebook for this area.  It is easy to navigate from the start of the road, but as soon as you get on trail you can get yourself lost in the thick of it all.  The approaches are long and pretty sketchy.  We found ourselves always checking to make sure we were on the right trail because it felt like we were not even on one.

My opinion on general area...
Absolutely beautiful part of the country.  Heavily wooded with rivers and ponds around you.  How can you possibly not like that?

Camping...
We had not heard of any free camping in the area except for at the Rattlesnake trailhead.  We hiked up the trail until it leveled off and headed directly left of it to hide our tent in the heavy wood.  Our tent was bright green with a reflector and you could not see it even when it was only 15 ft away.

Weather...
Go in the fall.  Spring/Summer is nice but humid and buggy.

Recommendation...
What I would recommend is that if you go to Rumney, that you stay there for as long as you can to get adjusted to the difficulty of the routes.  I thought the area itself was beautiful but the climbing/bouldering just was not my style.  I am not a huge fan of crimp, balancing moves.

To view other areas or go back to the map click here.
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Climber Nicholas Tibbs setting up on The Angler
Location: 3 hours south of Salt Lake City, closest town is Orangeville, Utah

Type of Climbing: Bouldering Mecca

Type of Rock: Sandstone

Camping: Free BLM land just about everywhere

Guidebooks: An Insightful Guide to Joe's Valley Bouldering
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It’s not in my nature to do things completely spontaneously, and having some sort of plan is what helps me not stress over a trip, especially financially. Except when you know someone that is staying in a place you have never climbed, near local friends, with a free-government-paid place to stay, it is nearly impossible to say no.

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It has been awhile since I went on a trip and completely lost cell phone reception. It’s like that lame Chevy commercial, but it’s true. It feels really good to just, get-away from it all and more specifically technology. As for someone who’s career is Social Media based, I’m online 40+ hours a week.  It gets old and sometimes you don’t want to be connected to the outside world, unless of course it’s this outside world that you are connected to…


To jump right into it, this weekend was great!  Spent Saturday and Sunday in the Uinta Mountains for the first time ever and definitely won’t be the last; NOT just because I bought the climbing guidebook but because of everything.  Comparing the SLC Valley vs Uinta's in August…

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Location: Located in the White Mountain National Forest, or Rumney, NH

Type of Climbing: Sport climbing & Bouldering

Type of Rock: Schist

Camping: Free camping at Rattlesnake trailhead

Guidebook: Rumney by Ward Smith
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Location: Located in the Keene Valley, New York

Type of Climbing: Bouldering

Type of Rock: Granite

Camping: Free camping all around the area (just have to find it)

Guidebook: Adirondack Rock: A Rock Climber's Guide by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas
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Location: Between Lake Placid and Saranac Lake

Type of Climbing: Bouldering

Type of Rock: Granite

Camping: Free camping all around the area

Guidebook: Adirondack Rock: A Rock Climber's Guide by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas

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Location: Located in Brecksville, Ohio about 20 minutes south of Cleveland

View Brecksville Creek in a larger map


Type of Climbing: Bouldering

Type of Rock: Sandstone

Camping: None?

Guidebook: None?

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Location: Located in Slade, Kentucky, 1 hour east of Lexington, 2 hours southeast of Cincinnati (Ohio)

Type of Climbing: Sport, Trad

Type of Rock: Sandstone

Camping: $2/person Miguel's Pizza

Guidebook: Red River Gorge Rock Climbs (3rd Edition) by Ray Ellington

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Location: 20 minutes south of Bellingham off of WA-11 S/Chuckanut Drive

Type of Climbing: Bouldering

Type of Rock: Sandstone

Camping: Larrabee State Park for a fee; Teddy Bear Cove (camping prohibited) but worth it, just don't get caught

Guidebook: I'm sure there is one but not necessary, problems are pretty obvious
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Location: 1.5 hours west from Leavenworth, 1 hour east of Seattle, 15 minutes from Index (great place for trad)

Type of Climbing: Bouldering

Type of Rock: Granite

Camping: RV Park (club?) where you can set up a tent

Guidebook: Central Washington Bouldering: Leavenworth & Gold Bar by Kelly Sheridan


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Location: 2.5 hours east of Seattle on highway 2, Inside the Wenatchee National Forest

Type of Climbing: Trad (mostly), Bouldering, Sport (too few)

Type of Rock: Granite

Camping: Campgrounds ranging from $14 - 24 all around the town; Free camping on turn off of Icicle Creek Rd (a main stay for many climbers)

Guidebook: Leavenworth Rock (3rd Edition) by Viktor Kramer, Central Washington Bouldering: Leavenworth & Gold Bar by Kelly Sheridan

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Location: 30 minutes east of Seattle right off of Exit 38

Type of Climbing: Sport

Type of Rock: ?

Camping: $7 at Tinkham Campground (4 miles past exit 38 at exit 42)

Guidebook: Exit 38 Rock Climbing Guide by Garth Bruce


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Location: 5 minutes north of Terraboone, Oregon

Type of Climbing: Sport (mostly), Bouldering

Type of Rock: Welded Tuft

Camping: Free BLM land past Skull Hollow Campground, $5/person at Bivouac Area (full-on facilities with showers and bathrooms), or $5 per car at Skull Hollow (Port-o-potties)

Guidebook: Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park, 2nd Edition by Alan Watts


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Location: (very) South central Idaho; West of Almo, Idaho; 4 hours north of Salt Lake City, Utah

Type of Climbing: Trad, Sport, Bouldering

Type of Rock: Granite

Camping: Free BLM land past Smokey Mountain Campgrounds, $20/ night at Smokey Mountain Campground

Guidebooks: City of Rocks Idaho, 7th: A Climber's Guide by Dave Bingham, Castle Rocks Guide (get it at Rock City while there) 


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These were as tall as skyscrapers, maybe bigger

After attending the Teva Mountain Games we felt like that we needed a break from it all and before coming back to Salt Lake City we were going to climb in Moab, Utah.

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Black Rocks Area - Not a bad view for the end of the day
It was just what the body needed.  60 degree weather in St George, Utah instead of the blistering cold that I have become accustomed to in Salt Lake City.  For those uninformed of where St George is in relation to SLC...enjoy my crud picture
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Today we went climbing at John Bryan State Park in Yellow Springs, Ohio to get away from our usual Hocking Hills spot.  I would have to say that I was thoroughly impressed, and am going back tomorrow seeing that it will be about 65 degrees again.  There are a lot of routes on the long ridge of the park, that are just waiting to be climbed.  I would say It
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